09 October 2008

the sun never sets on the Empire


So, I was like having a conversation with The Don some time back when the topic of drinking reared its delicate head. No, not the art of drinking or the many palatable offerings available in KL. Neither was it a case of who-drank-what-and-how-much. It was more insightful than that. We cracked our heads together (figuratively, mind you), trying to list down all the 'old school' joints around. By old school I don't mean the pub next to the church along Jalan Gasing. I'm referring to the decor, the ambience, the setting - colonial-era pubs, in a nutshell.


What exactly are colonial-era pubs, one may ask? Well, they don't necessarily have to have been built during the British Empire, though almost 90% of them were. They have, however, to have the feel, most importantly. By feel I mean the red-and-white chequered table cloth, a good plate of chicken chops, brass bars and ornaments, proper cutlery and crockery, and most importantly, fresh alcohol. Yes, fresh. In chilled mugs. And whiskey Cokes with bubbles in the liquid. Having decent English-speaking waiters and bartenders wouldn't hurt either, though that's some sort of a rarity these days.

Anyways, back to the story. There is more than a handful of such establishments in the Klang Valley, and even more in Ipoh and Penang. For those of us too lazy to make a two to four drive just to guzzle down two mugs of beer, the options closer to home are none the worse, I assure you. There is (drum roll, please) the Coliseum Cafe, the much chronicled joint on Jalan Tengku Abdul Rahman (popularly known as Jalan TAR or Batu Road). A legend in its own right, Coliseum was built sometime in the 1920's, if I'm not mistaken. Excellent drinks, delicious steaks (yes, I had my one and only steak here), and the caramel custard is to die for, either from heavenly delight or diabetes. The cuisine is more Asian-oriented these days, so those seeking local dishes will also find fried noodles and such.

Then there's Jaguar Supper Club in PJ State (PJ Newtown to some). Commonly just called Supper Club, it's on Jalan Yong Shook Lin; you can't miss it. Or if you do, it's directly opposite the CIMB, give or take several lots. Hearty meals and heartier drinks. It even has a low ceiling, so you really get that closed up, boxed in feeling. It's definitely a place you'd want to order Famous Grouse or Teacher's at; either neat or on the rocks. Old school stuff, I tell you.

Then we head back to KL. To what, in my opinion, is one of the most elegant railway stations in the world. Here you'll find Charlie's Restaurant & Bar. Another blast to the past, the early 20th century. Cheap, elegant and classy; that's what you get here. One can only imagine how the outlet was during the heydays of the rail, back in the 20's right up to the 50's. On saying that, I'm not exactly sure when Charlie's was established, but I do know their interior decorations are an amalgamation of new furniture and materials from a century ago.


Now this next joint, I'm not sure if it's still operational. Bistro 1919, near Jalan Pudu Lama. A colonial bungalow converted into a restaurant, fine dining all the way. I chanced upon the place several months after it had opened its doors, and was thoroughly impressed. Admittedly, the chi-chi factor was raised several notches higher than it should have, but one can't fault the make-up and aesthetics of the place. Very much reminiscent of Le Coq d'Or in Jalan Ampang. Hopefully 1919 hasn't shared the same fate.

Another place that comes to mind is Long Bar, situated in one of the remaining vestiges of British colonialism, The Royal Selangor Club. Most likely to have been established by some Victorian gentleman or clergyman, as there is a strict Men Only admission rule. Even today, in 2008! I guess some traditions need to be maintained at all cost, eh? Sit at the bar, sip your rum and peruse the ancient photos and portraits that deck the walls. Definitely worth a visit during lunch time. And no, there aren't any ladies to be picked up there. Think satay fest.

I'm pretty sure there are more, but my mind's a blank. Writing about frothy beer and tasty morsels has sent the grey matter into hibernation mode, at least until about 6ish this evening. However, the author (that's me) welcomes any venues he has left out (I kinda like writing in the third person). More or less.

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